18/11/2012

Clipping or trimming ?

If you sew by the book, you know that when you have sewn a curve, you have to clip or trim it before turning it back.
Fot a collar, you trim, and every other time, you clip.

It's just that, over time, I've come to prefer trimming every time I meet a convex curve.
I'll show you why :


One side has been trimmed, and the other clipped. Obviously, the side looking better is the trimmed one.
Effective clipping requires to know how the fabrics will react, and to make relatively close notches (between 1cm / 3/8" and 1,5cm / 5/8") to avoid the effect seen above.
This fabric is an Armani suiting wool.



Here are the bottom of the overlap, on top, and the collar. The fabric is a linen-cotton blend.
The bottom has been clipped, and the collar trimmed. The clipping has been made a bit more carefully, but the "breakings" show a little nonetheless. It's not as noticeable because the fabric is fluider and it has been pressed cleverly.

Here are the bottom and top of the overlap, in a wool coating fabric. Both are trimmed.

Trimming seems a lazy solution, but I really like the outcome, and I also prefer it because I fear clipping might weaken the seam (probably irrational, but...).
Am I the only one trimming where clipping should be made ?

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