Adventures in shirt sewing - Ch.3 - The holy grail

Edit : Someone very cleverly showed that this pattern has a strange likeness with BurdaMag 9/09 #105 shirt pattern.
Of course, Justice has not proven anything (as in, in all legality), and all doubt is permitted.
But, come on...

So, all these rehersals for this. For not throwing away 1.50m of Liberty Besty Ann.
No matter how ready you might be, the moment you have to cut in this kind of fabric (and I'm not talking about quality, I'm talking about price here), your hands are clammy.

The only, and last, alteration I made is lengthening the shirt at the side seams, reducing the curve ; now that I can lift my arms, it's nice not to have the sides go out of the trousers (and let's not forget how easier it is to hem a less curvy curve).

I made french seams, that I then topstitched, everywhere. Yep. Even in the sleeves and at the sleeve insertion.
On the two photos above, this is how I started and how I ended. I managed not to sew several layers together, nor my fingers.

The collar and cuffs are finished with "stitch in the ditch" on the outside, as to be invisible.
(This is the method I've been taught at school, but I'm aware that in RTW, it's not the official method, as it is too time consuming. Not so much for the sewing time, but for the slowness involved in perfect invisible stitch in the ditch, and quality control. In the manufactories I've been in, the methods employed are the ones used by Male Pattern Boldness in his FIT course.)

Unfortunately, I won't offer any close-ups, as the fabric pattern forbid any attempt at discerning anything. (Sometimes I wasn't sure what I was doing...)

The pattern asks for 1m50 of the main fabric and 0m40 of the contrast fabric. In reality, in size L, with a 1m40 of width fabric, I just used 1m50 in totality (1m30+0m20).

I had problems finding traditional shell shirt buttons. Such that I couldn't find any in the right size, and in the end I had to compromise and buy the most inconspicuous buttons I could find (pearly grey plastic ones).

Aucun commentaire:

Enregistrer un commentaire